Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'General Slingshot Discussions' started by rock slinger, Feb 13, 2014.
Some shots with my still unfinished starship
Just threw this one together today, as much as an experiment in aiming-Fork size as anything.
Surprised the heck out of me to learn she's a sweet little sniper, even if she does lean to the left a bit.
Don't even have it sanded or finish on it. Made mostly from a "Hardwood plant stake" with some PVC.
I guess me and PVC are a bit like Red Green and Duct Tape.
That is really nice! Nice shooting too. But does it sling off your wrist?
Nice job on those fork tips rockslinger! And the transition into the "barrel" is seamless. Is the whole thing one piece of wood or did you just do that good of a job?
I guess I did a good job. All I did was cut the 1 by 2 at the angle and sanded it flat the glue the forks, the put screws in.
So that's a shoulder stock rather than a wrist brace? Gets around the NY law lol
The solution to a device that pulls to one side is, of course, a pivoting fork.
Its not exactly a shoulder stock either, but yes in theory it should get around the whole "wrist braced" thing.
I'll see if I can get my wife to do a short movie clip of me shooting it tonight.
Be looking forward to that.
Well it isn't a movie clip (yet) but I do have pictures.
And to get back on topic, my latest PVc shooter, I'm calling this one V.
I was looking for fairly narrow forks, and forks that would flex back some under pressure, adding to the rubbers power.
My survival instinct kicked in as I was banding this up, and I tied a safety in case a fork broke. Running from one fork down around the handle and back to the top of the other fork. So if one broke it wouldn't take out an eye.
6 pulls later it broke, safety worked, no damage done, not even close. Forks removed, and reinforced with PVC and epoxy. And like Frankenstein it rises from the dead.
I have thought about trying a full shoulder stock. I wonder if this might circumvent the 'no wrist bracing' laws in various places. it seems a shame that some cannot enjoy starships and that Joerg has to go abroad to do record breaking shots
I suppose it will depend on the exact wording of the legislation .
I'm glad to see I'm not the only PVC enthusiast here either lol. Though I've never made a slingshot out of PVC I have made a few traditional style bows out of it. 3/4" schedule 40 and a heat source can make a decent 40-45 lb bow lol. Actually in process right now of trying to create a zombie killing sling bow out of PVC to see if ever a time arises and there is no power if I could still fashion a weapon. Ghost if it works I'll let you know
I like the version with the second handle. It is a rest for the hand after drawing. So you can relax your arm while be ready for shoot. It is also a substitude for an arm-rest wich is not allowed in some countrys.
Cwren I've been thinking a bit about a sling bow, used to shoot a plain 45 lb fiberglass recurve.
Really never did get into the whole pulley and string routine.
Actually stumbled across Joerg while researching PVC Bow/crossbow, ended up here. I think I took a wrong turn at Albuquerque!
Regulus I have several of those, there are some utube video's, search for "slingshot rifle".
Your thumb/finger become the lock mechanism, and being able to rest the heal of your hand to help hold the draw significantly improves aiming. Trick seems to be in getting both sides of the rubber exactly the same.
I took a lot of inspiration from these videos by Bill Hays.
The only real thing I do differently is I don't bring the rifle back to my eye.
I push it out till my left hand on the middle grip is comfortable, and then line up. You can look at it like a rifle sight only backwards, forks make the notch, my thumb makes the single peg that goes in the notch.
So it is backward in comparison to how rifle sights work, but if everything is aligned it hits where you aim it.
I do tend to make mine a bit shorter than Mr Hays did. With a foot less draw and a half inch more band I get good enough results for the indoor shooting I have been doing. I do have one setup with 2" gold's Gym bands on each side with a fairly wide, low fork, that I then adjusted the length on until I was comfortable with the draw weight. Being made of 3/4 PVC in sections with short pieces of 1/2 PVC shoved into them as connectors its easy to tinker with different lengths.
But anyone could take a piece of PVC, a piece of broom stick, or darn near anything and slap together a slingshot rifle that with a little practice will shoot amazingly well.
I've mostly been using thera tube on most of mine as they seem more durable. I have over 1000 rounds though one shooter with no visable signs of deterioration in the rubber.
But I normally don't stretch to 500% either.
That is pretty much in a nutshell what I've spent the last 6 months learning, hope it helps someone.
I also like what this guy has to say about adjusting fork height/profile for band wear.
I suspect he may be onto something, and it may be part of the reason why using Thera Tube through a
hole is resulting in better durability. Something for the band shooters to consider anyway.
Ghost it definitely did me. Thanks for the info.
Can't remember whether it's here on in that other forum, but some guy was using a sanding mechanism that seemed to result in a single plane at the top of both forks. And I commented that perhaps the fork tips needed to not be on the same plane, but part of an arc.
Glad to see some evidence that this thinking is valid.
Coyote I only have flat bands on one of my shooters at present, it has held up quite well thus far. Bands are mounted onto a piece of PVC which was bent into a curve. Now that I look at it with this information in mind I see that both sides stretch evenly.
I have not posted pictures of this shooter as this was one of my earliest creations and it looks like it came out of a junkyard. I'd of broken it down for parts and rebuilt it if it didn't shoot so well.
It is banded with 10" of Golds Gym Green 2" wide. In those days cutting bands straight was a real chore. So rather than 2 1" bands I just cut them 2" wide and folded them. I also think that 2 less edges means the bands are likely to last longer.