Questions for the more experienced artists on the forum...

Discussion in 'New project ideas' started by kohlqez, Feb 10, 2014.

  1. kohlqez

    kohlqez Accident-Prone

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    I have a few questions regarding (among other things) my latest SS I'm working on and I need some answers from some of you "grizzly veterans" of our fair forum, preferably before I do something stupid and mess up.
    #1. The first question is about epoxy, I'm wondering if anyone has a fix for hardened epoxy that's not quite dry? I think the problem is that I added too much hardener and not enough resin to my mix, resulting in a firm bond between my layers of material that is still sticky to the touch. Anyone ever experienced something similar or have a fix?
    #2 My second question is about finishing purpleheart wood. I recently got some purpleheart/amaranth in a trade with Glenn, I'm wondering what finish (BLO, Tung oil, Poly, etc.) Is best to bring out grain and slightly darken color of the wood, any suggestions?
    #3 Last (at least for now) but not least, what's it take to get me some of this world famous, "magic" rubber?

    I'm hoping someone can answer my questions soon or I fear I may have to ask the great Baba. And for one so insignificant as myself to speak with HIM could result in my body bursting into flames, which I hope to avoid
     
  2. Flipgun

    Flipgun Well-Known Member

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    I can help some with #1 and #3.
    #1 If the mix on the epoxy is off, it is unlikely to every get right. Pull it apart if you can and remove as best you may, then re-do. Others may have better suggestions.
    #3 Pm me your address and I'll send you some.
    I have never worked with PurpleHeart so I am no help there.
    Shout Me.
     

  3. Obl1v1Aus

    Obl1v1Aus Meh!

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    from my experiences most of the epoxies in the 2 part syringes have a waxy, slightly sticky feel to them even after they have fully cured.
    obviously if you can pull it apart it aint right, if its still sticky on the edges that will probably sand off, try cleaning it up with an exacto blade and giving it a light sand ans see what you find.

    I don't know anything about purpleheart, I've never worked with it, but i remember dolomite mentioning ages ago to avoid BLO as the solvents in it can destroy the colour of the wood. so an RLO finish would be better.

    as for magic rubber, I think flipguns offer is your best bet :D
     
  4. ruthiexxxx

    ruthiexxxx ruthiexxxx

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    I've finished purpleheart with Rustin's Danish Oil which did darken it...though it also reduced the purple colour somewhat
     
  5. VWscooby

    VWscooby Senior Member

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    From what I've heard UV light will bring forth the colour of purpleheart so it may need some sunlight before any finish
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
  6. JoergS

    JoergS Administrator

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    Purpleheart is very hard and dense, you can polish it to a high shine. It does not soak up oil very well because it is so dense. No big deal, oil is not needed.

    After you have polished it (I recommend sanding it to 600, wetting, resanding with 600, 1000, then 1200 or 2000 grit and then using car chrome polish), it will reach its final color after a day or two and then stay that way.
     
  7. BeMahoney

    BeMahoney Builder of things

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    Hey kohlqez,

    I think flipguns advice is right on #1; If there´s hardener "left"
    (that didn´t react), it won´t react now, will stay corrosive..
    Mr. Breddermann told me it´s all about the stoichiometric balance-
    meaning every molecule needs a counterpart, to be passive (and
    stable of course after reacting.- I bought precision scales to make
    sure the mix is right.. (plus very precise stirring..)

    #2 -all said

    #3 -that secret can be found between samba, a dog named like a
    kneecap and some norwegian ancestors! and guava forks, of course ;)

    kind regards,

    Be
     
  8. WildBill

    WildBill The Silly Song Guy

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    #2: Purple Heart Trick- Once it is dry-polished, give it a thin coat of Xylene. This will slightly darken the wood but will also protect it from scuffing. I've worked with PH for decades and have used this as my final protectant and it works extremely well.

    -Wild Bill