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<div>I just got my tax refund for the year and my wife said she didn't mind if I bought some tools. Today I bought a band saw, a belt sander, and a drill press. Next will be a vise and a work bench. For the first time in my life I will have a proper workshop, and I'm going to start making slingshots every week. What used to take hours will now take minutes. I'm so excited! <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" longdesc="2">
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<br>"non impediti ratione cogitationis" <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_wink.gif" alt="Wink" longdesc="15">
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Bandsaw... Bandsaw... Bandsaw... Bandsaw <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_cheers.png" alt="cheers" longdesc="28"><br>Best you can buy for making slingshots.<br>So a router should be your next machine you have to buy.
 

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<div>Oh yes, I forgot the router. That's definitely on the list. </div><div class="clear"></div><div class="signature_div">
<br>"non impediti ratione cogitationis" <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_wink.gif" alt="Wink" longdesc="15">
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· Im from Holland, isnt that weird?
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Wooopwooop, but, why spend money on a workbench, they are quite easy to build, definately with your new toys, i've build mine for next to nothing, my jigsaw was more expensive
 

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<div>I wasn't planning on actually buying a workbench. I should have said, "next I'll buy a vise and set up a work bench." Very good point.</div><div class="clear"></div><div class="signature_div">
<br>"non impediti ratione cogitationis" <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_wink.gif" alt="Wink" longdesc="15">
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<table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0" border="0" align="center">
<tr><td><span class="genmed"><b>Bert the Welder wrote:</b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="quote">That's a hellava refund!! Congrats. First project: something nice for the Mrs.!!!</td></tr>
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<span class="postbody"><br><br>Thanks Bert, good idea! The refund wasn't that much, lol. I didn't buy the biggest and best stuff. They are entry level tools, but compared to having nothing, they feel pretty damn luxurious! <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" longdesc="2"></span>
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· Im from Holland, isnt that weird?
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_xJD_aylYw&feature=youtube_gdata_player" class="postlink" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">this</a> just popped up in my utube feed, and i imidiately thought of you. I know, he has got the fancy tools, but this could be simplyfied.<br>
 

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<div>Awesome! Thanks <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" longdesc="2">
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<br>"non impediti ratione cogitationis" <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_wink.gif" alt="Wink" longdesc="15">
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<table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0" border="0" align="center">
<tr><td><span class="genmed"><b>onnod wrote:</b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="quote">
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_xJD_aylYw&feature=youtube_gdata_player" class="postlink" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">this</a> just popped up in my utube feed, and i imidiately thought of you. I know, he has got the fancy tools, but this could be simplyfied.<br>
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<span class="postbody"><br><br>Yep, this guy is brilliant! Highly recommended watching. No-nonsense approach and great "Joe average" methods. Solid core doors, like he used in the video are great bench tops. Solid, flat and have a pre-drilled hole for your power cords to pass through. You could even cut and router out a drop-in hole on one end for a integrated router table. Mount your router to a homemade base plate (1/4" acrylic sheet), drop it in and yer good to go. <br><br>A smart worker can make due with just about anything. The money one spends on tools does not make you more able.</span>
 

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Von and anyone else that doesn't have one: Another big help in the shop is the cutting guide he used in the video.( Also called a "Cutting Board") Build one that size for boards and one that's the width of a sheet of plywood/multiplex. Make the base from 1/4" ply or hardboard( 4' long and 12" deep) and fasten a "rail" on top of that piece made of 3/8-1/2" stock ( the factory edge of MDF sheet is good here to give you a nice straight edge which is important for one side of this Cutting Board. Make this strip 3" wide and 4' long. ). Mark the base at 9 and 6 inches width and mount the "rail" strip between these two marks, making sure that the straight factory edge of the "rail" is towards the wide side of the base. This will leave you 6" on the "cutting side". This should be enough width so that when you run your circular saw along the "rail" for the first time, it cuts off the excess from the base board. This is what gives you a perfectly parallel line to the "rail". This cut, and all cut's done after this using the Cutting Board should be made with the motor of your saw on the "rail" side. This gives you maximum area for your saw base plate to sit on. ( if your saws base plate is wider, from the blade to the outside edge of the base plate, on the motor side, then adjust the "rail" in further and make the base board wider, say 13 or 14".) The 3" on the other side of the rail is where you will clamp the Cutting Board to the sheet you are cross cutting. Having the clamps on this lower part, rather than on the "rail" allows more clearance between your clamps and the motor body of the saw. To use the board, just make 2 marks at each side of the sheet good, at how wide a section of the sheet good you want to cut off, clamp the Cutting Board's cut side right at the mark and run the saw along the rail. Perfectly cut. No tear out and no farting around marking a line and trying to follow it free hand or doing math to add the saw width plus the cut width, blah blah blah. Having these two Cutting Boards eliminates 90% of the use of a table saw and takes up no space and cost next to nothing to make. Just remember that the Cutting Board gets clamped at the marks and your saw blade will subtract it's width from that side of the cut. So if you can't clamp the Cutting Board on the piece you are wanting to cut off, clamp it on the other side but add the width of your blade to you marks so you get the right width. IE: if you want to cut off a 6" width of plywood and your blade takes an 1/8" cut, make your marks at 6 and 1/8". <br>I've even got a 8' 6" Cutting Board to rip the length of a full sheet. Much easier and safer than doing it on my table saw. <br>Anyhow, hope that's of some use to those that are working with sheets and need to make life easier. It's one of those job site tricks you learn on a job site, though YouTube is helping a lot to get these nice bits out to the homers. <br>Cheers,<br>BTW
 

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Hello von_z2,<br>i bought <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdGUjiriMQs&playnext=1&list=PL9O-VlbkP2QFVX82drLYotybimg6oM0f6&feature=results_video" class="postlink" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">This</a><br>some month ago and pimped it with a stainless steel<br>surface, because of my metal work.<br>It´s not expensive and you are more flexible.<br><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78waTfyWrSk" class="postlink" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"></a>
 

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That's cool Slingpit. Pimped with steel for metal cutting is brilliant. <br>I drilled holes in my old Makita jig saw's base plate and screwed it upside down, under a piece of laminated beaver barf, for the same idea as in the video, but didn't have the top guild bearings, so got the offset angle cut as demo'd in the video. Was going to add a wood "bearing" to keep the blade straight, but never got around to it. This looks like a great product for those that don't have the space/cash for a bandsaw. And would be longer lasting and better suited for cutting thick plywood than a scroll saw. Though I think the bearings don't' look very strong and 130 euro is quite a bit. <br>Very cool none the less.
 

· Im from Holland, isnt that weird?
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<table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0" border="0" align="center">
<tr><td><span class="genmed"><b>Bert the Welder wrote:</b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="quote">That's cool Slingpit. Pimped with steel for metal cutting is brilliant. <br>I drilled holes in my old Makita jig saw's base plate and screwed it upside down, under a piece of laminated beaver barf, for the same idea as in the video, but didn't have the top guild bearings, so got the offset angle cut as demo'd in the video. Was going to add a wood "bearing" to keep the blade straight, but never got around to it. This looks like a great product for those that don't have the space/cash for a bandsaw. And would be longer lasting and better suited for cutting thick plywood than a scroll saw. Though I think the bearings don't' look very strong and 130 euro is quite a bit. <br>Very cool none the less.</td></tr>
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<span class="postbody"><br>i thought the same, that is why i am allready looking for roller blade/schateboard bearings</span>
 

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Hi Bert and onnod,<br>the bearings are ok, not the best. If they will break, it´s the next part for use better once. And 130 &euro; are a good price for that. If you want to start making all this part , you will pay more.
 

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<table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0" border="0" align="center">
<tr><td><span class="genmed"><b>onnod wrote:</b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="quote">
<br>i thought the same, that is why i am allready looking for roller blade/schateboard bearings</td></tr>
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<span class="postbody"><br><br>Just saw a shopping cart full of roller blades, $2/pair. <br><br></span><table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0" border="0" align="center">
<tr><td><span class="genmed"><b>onnod wrote:</b></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="quote">So you are saying i can't make this for allmost nothing? chalange <br>accepted :p, atleats if you could shiw me a closeup from the head, <br>please?</td></tr>
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<span class="postbody"><br><br>Making one shouldn't be much trouble. I just thought the plastic <i>looked</i> a bit weak for 130 euro, that's all. Multiplex would be a good material to use for a diy version.</span>
 

· Im from Holland, isnt that weird?
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Aha, like that, i've got a nice board of multiplex. that could make the arm and the sawing table and i've found some pretty good roling skateboard bearings, i'll look tomorow what i can make from it, i've also been looking into blade guides for bandsaws, as they look similar
 
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