Idea for a clean tube fixation system

Discussion in 'New project ideas' started by AtomikBanane, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. AtomikBanane

    AtomikBanane A dangerous banana

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    Hi everyone,
    Fews days ago I discovered that if you put one "arm" of that type of pliers:
    http://www.peche-et-leurre-discount.fr/1073-1250-thickbox/pince-ronde-pezon-michel.jpg
    IN a tube (thera tube black here) and you push a little bit on the tube, then you have a completely fixed tube. It's very hard to undo. I had to cut the tube.

    So, if you use a metal cone like this and turn it a litte bit rough with a file, you can get a very cool fixation for every slingshot or laucher.
    Now you just need to drill a conic hole (or regular hole) in the piece you want to fix the tube.

    Something like this:

    [​IMG]

    It will be very solid for sure and very clean. I have no time to experiment this because of studies. But I'm pretty sure that it can ben a cool way to fix some tubes!
     
  2. Ghosth

    Ghosth Over the hill but still swinging!

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    So using a tapered hole and a plug with similar taper? How do you keep the plug from working loose?

    I do think your on the right track, looked like the scout slingshot just switched to this type of attachment point.
     

  3. AtomikBanane

    AtomikBanane A dangerous banana

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    Well, when you gonna pull the launcher, the thickness of the tube will decrease. And the metal part will be leaded by the tubes deeper in the hole. Then, the fixation will not come out of the wood, because the tube will be compressed between the metal piece and the wood, and the metal part will be locked by this compressed rubber.
    To make sure, first place the metal part in the tube, then pull the tube and then lock the all thing in the hole, and release at last.

    It needs some experiment, but I think there is some potential behind this :D
     
  4. BeMahoney

    BeMahoney Builder of things

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    Think about that. There´s gonna be friction on the inner and outer surface of the tube..
    And it´s gonna be right there where a breaking tube will then be generous giving you
    some nice little faceslaps..

    Why not reduce friction by using a polished steel ball like here? (the wall of the "Conehole" lol should be polished too..)
     

    Attached Files:

  5. BeMahoney

    BeMahoney Builder of things

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    Nothing new

    Or like this!?-

    a lot easier to drill..

    Greetings,

    Be
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Cubanizm

    Cubanizm Junior Member

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    Question: What program did you use for this diagram? Is it AutoCad Or a simpler program?
     
  7. BeMahoney

    BeMahoney Builder of things

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    I had the pleasure to recently purchsase AutoCAD 2014 (Design Suite Premium)..
    (skipped that new car-thing :( )
    The sketch is the work of minutes...
     
  8. dolomite

    dolomite Banned

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    it looks clean but a fork failure ends up with metal(plug or ball) flying at your face. theres been a couple comercial slingies pulled due to lawsuits from the band coming out and the metal ball put out eyes, knocked out teeth, and in genral destroyed faces. This has put me off ever even trying it, sight is important to me. theres youtube vids showing what can happen, safety glasses don't stem the danger.
     
  9. zwillie

    zwillie New Member

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    Hi,
    I use screws instead of a cone.
    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    Zwillie (who is back in slingshooting :D )
     
  10. zwillie

    zwillie New Member

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    @ dolomite,
    Good point, this is why I always test my forks and frames with about 300% of the maximum drawweight.
    Zwillie
     
  11. Tysonspapa

    Tysonspapa New Member

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    thats exactly what i do, and it works good so far.
     
  12. AtomikBanane

    AtomikBanane A dangerous banana

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    Well, I think that the more friction you have, the more the rubber will stay in the fixation (I presume?)
    EDIT: The inner tube is already wery smooth and clean, so not too much friction.

    I dont really get it. You mean that rubber would break at the friction areas?
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2013
  13. Brazilviking

    Brazilviking Thread Hijacker

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    I think that A.banana idea may work.... But some adjustments might be necessary. Round edges, special holes, etc etc. rubber inspection must be done frequently too. The danger zone usually is the transition from a hard stiff structure for a soft mobile structure. Stress energy acumulates there.
     
  14. BeMahoney

    BeMahoney Builder of things

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    What I believe is: If you take pliers, cut off the tips, squeeze those into the tube and then
    keep streching the band it will as well get thinner, up to there where stretching ends..
    (which will make the first few millimeters slip off the cone and then flip reverse onto the cone).
    This resulting "permanent movement" of the tube on the tip of
    the cone will wear off the slick inner surface of the tube and result in a broken tube
    (most likely breaking right where it is coming out of the fork, but on the shooters side-
    faceslap!)

    I admit I always think of pliers like on those pics
    (as I thought those are depicted on that initial CAD-sketch)

    Greetings,

    Be
     

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  15. G_Y

    G_Y aiming the less

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    I'm not happy with tubes in small frameholes. The tube is twisting when shooten and needs manual reset often:
     

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