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Discussion in 'General Slingshot Discussions' started by codido187, Jan 24, 2014.
Are these fatal cracks??
Nope... they won't be deep, and you can easily fill them with a mix of saw dust and epoxy later on.
I´m not a specialist for naturals (except maybe beachforks )
but I would be a lot of money that Jörg is right;- and you´ve
got so much wood on that fork..
Just go ahead!-I´m really curious for the result!
(for I´ve got a birch fork drying, too../ is it birch at all?)
My question would be is if it is totally dry? If not, and you work it and fill the cracks, it may shrink more and reopen the cracks. But regardless of that, Joerg is right and you would just have to fill them more. If your not sure if it's dry enough, stick it in a open ziplock and nuke it for a few short bursts. If it shows moisture in the bag, more dry time how ever you chose to do it.
Be, you seem to know where to hunt some of the sweetest beach forks around! A whole ongoing thread should be dedicated to those gems! I'd bet your other half would beg to differ though unfortunately...
Those are very shallow, cutting 1/2 and inch of the wood will get rid of those cracks quickly just seal the ends with glue after cutting just to be sure
Thank you all for applying I thought i was doomed and yes it is fully dry. Will wood glue and saw dust work???
Well, ihmo and similar to what Be had said, with how chunky that beast is, you have A LOT of work to do and material to remove. So, it may be that you can work down the bulk of it to gripping size and the forks to functional banding size and by then, you may have eliminated the depth of the cracks altogether. You can always touch them up in the end finishing if there is any still showing by then. Good luck and rip 'er down to size!
You would have to make extremely fine dust and
add some water to get the glue thinner..
That´s a bit tricky..
You could also use some CyanoAcrylate..
I´d try to get the (wood)glue into the cracks (using paper!)
and then drop some dust on it.
Blow off the non-sticking dust and repeat..
(I think slowly filling the cracks with CA is the cleaner approach..)
.. but dust/CA might work, too- never tried, though..
Greetings and good success!
I will try wood glue I have Elmer's that is really thin and watery and I'll file an old piece of wood an shove the dust into the cracks
Just wondering if you noticed how Joerg ended his comment with "later on?" Just sayin'... your project though.
It still looks green. The cracks will depen if so. If not green then start to cut to the shape you want. This may completely hid the cracks.
I just made an oak natty for my brothers co-worker that had Lily cracks like that. I'd get the shaping completed then do the glue. I used a darker sawdust for nice contrast.
I'm with Ravensbull about doubting that the fork is completely dry. If it is not, seal the ends with white glue and save it for summer. If you think that it is, then you have a lot of meat there and that will most likely carve out or you could cap it if it doesn't.
Cyanoacrylate as BeMahoney spoke of is his post is very good if you use the thin type, not the gel type. That will allow it to run into the crack and actual stop the crack from growing. One of my wood carving friends in his infinite wisdom of wood carving shared that secret with me to use on one of my projects that I thought was beyond help. He saved the day and my project
I roughed it up with the file and it shaves very well I'm going to try and cook it in the mike to make sure it is completely try you guys have made some really nice slingshots so I trust what you guys are saying I'll cook it for a few minutes or I'll leave it by the heater tonight I sealed the ends with wood glue I am very new to this so I'm learning how the ins and outs work
I am letting it stay in front of my heater tonight at 75 degrees
What is some good ca since you guys are mentioning it
Well certainly no one here is going to intentionally give you bad advice to steer you wrong or try to make you mess it up! Most all of what you have been told so far or may be told in the future here is proper advice that has been echoed all over in different threads and the other forums too. If by chance there was bad or incorrect advice given, you would know it because other members would surely correct it to keep you on track. Trust in this "Family" just goes unspoken so rest assured!
Thank you ravensbull for re assuring me I did decide to cook it a little bit longer in front of my heater to get the moisture out and now it files down a lot better I'm pretty sure now it's way dryer the cracks grew just a tiny bit but I did seal them with wood glue and I massaged the wood glue in to the cracks and it appeared to have sealed the cracks now tomorrow is time for filing down
Once you get the bark off down to the sap wood, I'd still consider a bit of microwaving in a clear plastic bag but open for a few 30 second jolts and watch it closely as you do. If you see moisture/condensation gathering in the bag, it needs more drying. If you want to continue to nuke it dry, I've read that you may want to clear off the glue sealing the ends to allow the water to escape, although that may also cause the end cracks to open more. Don't sweat that malarkey for now though, make your crack repair concerns a later on issue. You want the fork DRY first or when you work it down to grip/fork shape it will continue to dry then causing cracking that will make you want to pout! But still repairable LATER ON!