Bad Company 1.4

Discussion in 'General Slingshot Discussions' started by mhpr262, Apr 20, 2013.

  1. mhpr262

    mhpr262 Member

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    Hi all,<br><br>the latest version of my "Bad Company", V. 1.4, is finally up. <br><br>As a boardcut hammergrip slingshot is is something of a rarity, there aren't too many of those designs around. Most important change are additional, optional contours for a palmswell made from 24mm Multiplex (the old slingshot was designed to be made from 18mm material only) which is more comfortable with really strong bands.<br><br>Despite the very low fork it is as well suited for beginners as it is for pros, I have never ever had a fork hit, out of thousands of shots fired.<br><br>It is no beauty and it was never meant to be, I like my frames to be rugged, hard use tools that do not require pampering.<br><br>Template can be downloaded here:<br><br><a href="http://slingshotforum.com/files/file/66-bad-company/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://slingshotforum.com/files/file/66-bad-company/</a><br><br><img src="http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff200/mhpr53/DSCN1504.jpg" border="0" alt="">
     
  2. onnod

    onnod Im from Holland, isnt that weird?

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    Still looks the same to me, from what i read you've made some good improvements!
     

  3. zurdoman95

    zurdoman95 Member

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    i realy like your "bad comany" slingshot and i think that this idea of the palmswell is very good and it seems very confortable to the hammergrip i'm going to do mi next slingshot with this concept and. I admire your good work with plywood I would work on it as well as you
     
  4. mhpr262

    mhpr262 Member

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    <table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0" border="0" align="center">
    <tr><td><span class="genmed"><b>onnod wrote:</b></span></td></tr>
    <tr><td class="quote">Still looks the same to me, from what i read you've made some good improvements!</td></tr>
    </table>
    <span class="postbody"><br><br>It is still the old pic of V. 1.3. just to give new people an idea what the design looks like. The 24 mm palmswell is only optional and it would make the slingshot <i>look</i> barely any different anyway. I don't have a pic of it yet.</span>
     
  5. mhpr262

    mhpr262 Member

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    <table width="90%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0" border="0" align="center">
    <tr><td><span class="genmed"><b>zurdoman95 wrote:</b></span></td></tr>
    <tr><td class="quote">i realy like your "bad comany" slingshot and i think that this idea of the palmswell is very good and it seems very confortable to the hammergrip i'm going to do mi next slingshot with this concept and. I admire your good work with plywood I would work on it as well as you </td></tr>
    </table>
    <span class="postbody"><br><br>I am not exactly the best craftsman out there <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_biggrin.png" alt="Very Happy" longdesc="1"> There are people here or on the other forum who are many leagues above me and I know that I will most likely NEVER be as good as they are. I have neither the ambition or the patience, either.</span>
     
  6. zurdoman95

    zurdoman95 Member

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    I probably never will be either like them but for now I would like to work as your <img src="http://illiweb.com/fa/i/smiles/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile" longdesc="2">
     
  7. studer1972

    studer1972 scooter trash

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    how effective do you find the beavertail for improved leverage?
     
  8. kineticweaponry

    kineticweaponry Senior Member

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    i just received one of these from flipgun, it is an awesome design
     
  9. studer1972

    studer1972 scooter trash

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    bought some multiplex to try and make a couple of these. thanks again for the design!
     
  10. studer1972

    studer1972 scooter trash

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    When I glue a 1/4" sheet of baltic birch to a 1/2" sheet, what kind of glue should I use? Should I keep the grains parallel or perpendicular? How long should I keep it pressed under weights for drying & lamination? I bought a cheap coping saw and files today. Still looking for a clamp mounter bench vise, or is it not necessary to hold the working piece with a vice when cutting with a coping saw?
     
  11. studer1972

    studer1972 scooter trash

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    Bought some ash 3/4" board today, got a bench vise and glued my multiplex. Might cut a modernized* Wham-O Sportsman repro tonight to see how well the coping saw works. Tomorrow, or perhaps next weekend if the coping saw is too hard on my hands, I will cut out a bad company.

    *fatter handle towards the pinky/ring fingers, grooves for flatband/tube/chained band attachments instead of the slots, lanyard hole at end of grip.
     
  12. Flipgun

    Flipgun Well-Known Member

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    I use wood glue from Harbor Freight. I always have the exterior grain running up/down. That is also the way you want to sand or rasp any edge. Rubber bands are usually all of the clamp you need. As for holding your work still: A "C" clamp will be fine. Just put a piece of scrap under the foot to keep from scarring your workpiece. Harbor freight has scroll saws on sale for $60.00 all of the time, then you won't need to clamp it down.
     
  13. studer1972

    studer1972 scooter trash

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    broke the blade on my coping saw halfway through. Will see if I can use my friend's scroll saw. easier than I thought to follow the lines. how well do jigsaws work for cutting forks from board or multiplex?