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Old 09-07-2014, 09:49 PM   #1
WildBill
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Default Shop Tricks

Here's a thread for various shop tricks (BoyntonStu should have plenty to share here!). I'm still setting up things in mine but I thought I'd share this one...

I prefer corded drills to battery ones, and I like to have two or three handy- one with a screwdriver bit, one with a counter sink and another for swapping bits and such. Well, I found that taking an old shoe that has the toe removed or just worn out and nailing the heel to my workbench makes for a great holster for my drill(s). With the toe gone I can just leave whatever bit in it and there's no issue.

-Wild Bill


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Old 09-07-2014, 09:56 PM   #2
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I'd say that's a "Shoe -In" for an ingenuity award!



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Old 09-07-2014, 09:56 PM   #3
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Default Thanks Bill

After the thread I've just fled from (men with red lacquered nails) I turned to this one.

Oh no not hair driers! Not for men.

You haven't let me down. Practical resourceful shabby and tinged with age sweat and dirt. That's more like it.
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Old 09-07-2014, 11:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimRhodo View Post
After the thread I've just fled from (men with red lacquered nails) I turned to this one.

Oh no not hair driers! Not for men.

You haven't let me down. Practical resourceful shabby and tinged with age sweat and dirt. That's more like it.
Yeah I needed a dose of man shop as well!
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:37 AM   #5
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I love it!
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:27 AM   #6
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I've been laughing about this all afternoon.
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Old 09-08-2014, 06:03 AM   #7
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My tips aren't so great but here we go.
1. If you cut aluminum with a scrollsaw, don't use an aluminum or metal blade. Use a #7 ultra reverse wood blade, it cuts faster and cleaner and you can do the work of 5-6 ally blades with 1 ultra reverse.

2. For those whom don't have a table saw, a circular saw can be used with a straight edge. Hold the saw blade up against a straight piece of
wood with the table resting on said piece of wood. Place another piece of wood so its along side the saws table. Now measure the distance between the boards to accurately get the distance between blade and the edge of the saws table. Now simply add this number to the dimension you have to cut, clamp the straight edge down and make sure the table is always firmly against the straight edge and you will have true cuts.

I may have more later but its late and I can't think well right now.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:22 PM   #8
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As Dolo said, use wood cutting saw blades in your powered saws to cut aluminum (all except the circular style saws). For the Bladerunner - the wood scroll saw blade works best with the speed adjusted to your style of cutting. For the scroll saw - any medium depth teeth wood blade will work but the ones that do both an up and down stroke cut are the best.

The metal cutting blades just gum up with aluminum.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:26 PM   #9
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I like this thread.

You can get more life out of your gunked up sandpaper (belt sanders too) if you clean it with a steel brush.
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:42 PM   #10
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An oscillating sander can save a lot of time with fine sanding (10,000 RPM or higher - available for about $20). Most stores carry 220 grit and some carry 320 grit for these round sanders. Whatever grit you use it is the equivalent of hand sanding at twice that grit. For example, 220 grit on the oscillating sander will be about as smooth as 400 grit by hand. You can use the edges of these sanders to get into all the small gaps as well. You can also dip your hand in water and wet the sandpaper to achieve a wet sanded finish.

One word of caution, it takes a lot of strength to hold one of these sanders in one hand and the slingshot in the other. I never use a vice at this point since it leaves marks on the finished product.


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